🧭 Overview
Cuba is a Caribbean island nation frozen in time yet slowly changing. The Communist government led by the Castro brothers (Fidel until 2008, Raúl until 2018, now Miguel Díaz-Canel) has ruled since 1959 revolution. US embargo (1960-present) shaped the economy and isolated Cuba. The country offers vintage cars, colonial architecture, salsa, cigars, and rum — but also shortages, repression, crumbling infrastructure, and dual economy. Recent economic crisis (COVID, tightened US sanctions, economic mismanagement) created severe hardship. Living in Cuba is fascinating but extremely difficult due to shortages, restrictions, and political climate.
👥 People & vibe
With roughly 11 million people, Cuba's population is mixed: white (~64%), mixed race (~27%), Black (~9%). Spanish is the language. The culture blends Spanish colonial legacy, African influences (from slavery), and revolutionary ideology. Music (son, salsa, rumba, reggaeton) is omnipresent. Cubans are warm, creative, and resilient despite hardship. Education and healthcare are free and prioritized. Social life centers on family, music, and navigating shortages. The vibe is contradictory — joy and frustration, pride and desperation. Emigration is massive escape valve.
🌦️ Climate & landscape
Expect tropical climate: hot and humid year-round (25-32°C) with rainy season (May-October, hurricane risk) and dry season (November-April). Hurricanes are frequent threats. The landscape includes stunning beaches (Varadero, Cayo Coco), tobacco valleys (Viñales), mountains (Sierra Maestra), and colonial cities (Havana, Trinidad). Natural beauty is real but environmental degradation and lack of maintenance are visible. The island is ~1,100km long.
🏠 Housing & settling in
Foreign residents typically rent from state-approved casas particulares or rent private apartments (increasingly common but legally complex). Havana's Vedado and Miramar attract foreigners. Expect negotiated terms — often monthly in USD/EUR. Quality varies wildly — some renovated colonials are charming; most housing is deteriorating from lack of maintenance. Power cuts, water shortages, and infrastructure failures are daily realities. Buying property as foreigner is essentially impossible due to restrictions. Registration is required and monitored.
💼 Work & economy
The economy is state-controlled with growing private sector (cuentapropismo). For foreigners, opportunities are extremely limited: working for international organizations, NGOs, embassies, or as journalists/researchers requires government approval. Tourism sector employs many Cubans but foreigners need special permissions. Remote work is theoretically possible but internet is expensive and unreliable. The dual economy (state sector pays ~$50/month, private/tourism sector earns USD/EUR) creates surreal distortions. Starting a business as foreigner is not realistic.
🛂 Visa & entry
Tourists get 30-day visa (tourist card) on arrival. Extensions possible. For residence, options are extremely limited: marriage to Cuban, work for approved entity, or retiree status (rarely granted). The process is opaque and political. US citizens face additional restrictions but can visit under specific categories. Permanent residence is very difficult. Dual citizenship is not recognized — Cuban-born are always Cuban citizens regardless of other passports. The system is restrictive and political.
🏥 Healthcare
Healthcare is free universal system. Cuba has high doctor-to-population ratio and trains doctors for export. For basic care, quality is adequate. However, shortages of medicines, equipment, and supplies are severe. Foreigners and wealthy Cubans pay cash for better service. International clinics in Havana serve diplomats/tourists. Serious conditions require leaving Cuba. Life expectancy is ~79 years, impressive given constraints. Preventive care is strong but chronic disease management struggles.
🚗 Transport & mobility
Public transport is inadequate — buses are overcrowded and unreliable. Shared taxis (colectivos) and private taxis serve Havana. Classic American cars (1950s) are iconic but barely functional. Cubans hitchhike extensively. Intercity buses (Viazul for tourists, state buses for Cubans) are separate systems. Domestic flights exist but are unreliable. Havana's José Martí Airport connects to limited international destinations (cancún, Spain, Canada). The transportation system is dysfunctional but Cubans navigate it with remarkable ingenuity.
🍛 Food note (national dish)
The national dish is Ropa Vieja
: shredded beef in tomato sauce with peppers and onions, served with rice, black beans, and plantains. The name means 'old clothes' due to shredded appearance. However, beef shortages mean it's often unavailable. Cuban food is simple due to limited ingredients — rice, beans, pork, plantains dominate.
🔎 Bottom line
Cuba is NOT for typical expats or retirees. It's for journalists, researchers, diplomats, NGO workers, or those with specific missions. Living here means accepting severe shortages (food, medicine, basic goods), frequent power cuts, restricted internet, political repression, and bureaucratic nightmares. The Cuban people are wonderful, but the system is suffocating. It's fascinating for short visits but grinding to live in. Only come with institutional support, realistic expectations, and strong tolerance for hardship. The romance of vintage cars and salsa doesn't overcome daily struggles.
Expat Score — 4.5 / 10